 Trees
|
- Plant trees until about mid-March. Trees planted after this date will have a
harder time making it through their first Texas summer.
- Where you have bedding areas under trees, apply three inches of mulch
under the entire canopy during the first
week of April. Mulch will help keep
roots cool and maintain moisture in
the soil during summer months. Your
tree will be healthier and grow faster!
- Do not prune oaks at this time! In order
to prevent oak wilt, a serious fungal
disease, avoid pruning or wounding of
any kind. If wounding occurs because
of storms or power line clearance, paint
over the wounds within thirty minutes of
making or seeing cuts.
|
 Grasses
|
- Do not fertilize too early. After you have mowed real grass (not the weeds) twice
apply one pound of nitrogen per 1,000
square feet. (That’s about five pounds
of product labeled 19-5-9 fertilizer for
the average yard). If you fertilize too
early, you are just benefiting the weeds.
- Don’t waste water by irrigating
early in the spring when the grass is
still dormant. It won’t make it turn
green faster.
|
|
Weed Control
|
- Winter weeds: If you have winter weeds
still hanging on, they will decline as the
weather gets hot. Keep cutting often so they won't produce seeds.
- Yank Young Weeds: Pull out young
weeds as they spring up. They are
much easier to eliminate in their early growth stages!
- Major weed problems last summer? If you had a lot of weeds last summer,
you may want to consider a pre-emergent herbicide product. This is
not necessary for just a few weeds, but can help get a major weed problem
under control. The pre-emergent products must be used before summer
weeds begin to grow. After you see them starting to grow, it is too late. Time the
application to be just as warmer weather is beginning in spring, around
early March. Follow directions carefully regarding the amount to use and note
the plants that may be affected.
|
 Herbs
|
- Prune dead portions out of evergreen herbs now.
- Weed herb beds regularly to prevent competition for nutrients and moisture.
- Divide perennial herbs in early spring every 3 to 4 years to create new plants and improve the vigor of old ones.
|
 Perennials
|
- Do some spring cleanup. Remove frost damaged stems.
- Plant new, well-adapted perennials.
- Check the depth of mulch in planted areas. Renew as needed to a depth of 2" to 3".
|
 Roses
|
- In early spring, dead branches can be removed. Size of plants can also be reduced through selective pruning.
- Apply a cup of slow-release lawn fertilizer or two cups of organic fertilizer per plant. Spread under the crown of the plant.
|
 Annuals
|
|
As the soils warm, some annuals make great filler for empty-looking areas of the garden. Some are particularly effective for adding color to shady
areas of the yard. Start the annuals listed below before the true heat of summer begins for best results. If
doing extensive soil preparation is not to your taste, consider using a few containers of these annuals mixed into
garden beds. They become mobile spots of color.
|
 Wildscape
|
- Oak leaves may be falling in early spring. Allow them to compost naturally in your garden beds. They make wonderful mulch!
- As late spring heat begins, wildflowers go to seed. This is not their most attractive phase, but it is important.
The seeds must be allowed to develop and drop if the wildflowers are to come back next year.
- Wildscapes are best when pruning is minimized. However, if branches are on the roof or are blocking walkways or feeders, they can be pruned.
|
|
Bugs in the Garden
|
 Don’t Worry About Every Bug! Most of the insects in your garden are beneficial (such as spiders and ladybugs). When you apply insecticides to kill fairly harmless insects like aphids, you disturb all of the beneficial ones. You can leave them alone in a wildscape! Your well-adapted plants can survive periodic nibbling by a few insects. The predators will naturally balance things out for you. The insects in your garden are also important sources of protein for songbirds and anoles.
|
 Water
|
- Open the end caps on soaker hoses and drip irrigation lines to flush out
sediment, dirt and mineral deposits.
- Check automatic sprinkler systems for broken or misaligned spray heads and
filters in the spray heads.
- Consider scheduling a FREE Irrigation Check-Up through San Antonio Water
System. Call 210-704-SAVE.
|
|
Spring Seasonal Water Benchmarks
|
- Wait for plant “green up” to occur
before beginning to water your plants.
Excess water will not make your garden
green up faster in the spring. We have
to wait for soil warming to occur.
-
Water deeply, then wait for soil to dry before watering again.
-
Keep your automatic sprinkler system
set on the "OFF" or "MANUAL" mode.
Turn it on only when your soil is drying
or established plants show slight wilting
in the morning hours.
-
Water newly-planted plants by hand
using hoses and a water wand. This
gives you better control and a chance to
thoroughly soak only your new plantings.
|
 Pruning
|
|
Pant Type
|
|
Pruning Directions
|
Trees;
Texas Mountain Laurel
|
|
These bloom in early spring. Don't cut them back until they are done or you will miss the beautiful and fragrant purple blooms.
|
|
|
Roses
|
|
Roses are usually cut back around George Washington's birthday. An exception is climbing roses. Prune those after they bloom in early spring.
|
|
|
Perennials
|
|
Cut back brown tops of perennials, now. One option is to wait to see where new growth appears and cut back to that. This will result in perennials like plumbago and esperanza (yellow bells) getting larger each summer.
|
|
|
Shrubs
|
|
If you had any winter damage or need to do some shaping, this is a good time.
|
|
|
Groundcover
|
|
Trim back Asiatic Jasmine in February to encourage thick cover.
|
|
